Medewi

OK I'm crashed out down in medewi. Limited internet I'm afraid but the pad is pretty cool
I have it all to my self, two big air conditioned bedrooms and an outside top deck living space with a view of one of the the surf breaks. Surfed yesterday, bit windy, but this morning was 3-5 glass. Went down to medewi proper and surfed the left down there. There were about 10 people out including two Japanese pensioners ( a man and his wife, they live here apparently). The locals were pretty sick, pulling airs and getting barrelled. Then, two firsts for me. Caught a wave, left hand turn, and it just chucked right over me. I did absolutely nothing but look left and crouch. One second later I'm drinking sea water and I feel the leash go tight , and ping! The second first. Leash snap. I'm stuck, miles out from the rocky beach and I don't even have a wetsuit on for the added buoyancy. rentals. Im afraid i swore for the first time in 2013. So I tread water and wander what to do!! If I'm honest I'm shitting myself at this point. So, I start swimming toward the beach thinking that I would never make it. We were miles out..... I'm defo going to do some sea swimming this summer. Luckily a french rastafarian tattooed rob machado lookalike spots that I'm swimming and my board is already on the beach, paddles over, introduces himself, says his name is nick, and shakes hands. Then we paddle his board in together just like Brodie and the oceanographer at the end of jaws. I owe that man more than one beer. We got half way in and his mate catches up with us on his longboard so nick gives me his board, and jumps on the back of the long board paddling it like a tandem. It was a very long paddle.

So then I go over to the hire guy pee pee. To be fair he was a pretty nice guy and had been surfing with me all morning. Blocking people when he thought the wave was just right for me. So I say man, that leash must have been knackered. He says sorry, it happens all the time with the longer boards here, and that he had spotted me, and saw that someone was helping me out. Then he charges me 10 quid for the leash! The locals have a little surf scene going on and its only a village, so you have to buy a t shirt off the club if you want to surf it for a few days but defo worth it.

Got out again today and it was even bigger. Medewi is a bitch to get out of at low. Its so rocky. But perfect takeoff section, bit like polz, or  then workable, then if you are lucky the last section gives you a small barrel, but by this time you are in four foot of water over boulders. Paddle out is dry hair because its a point so you can paddle round it but the distance is like paddling from saunton beach to down end point. Met a couple of top Aussies, Dan and Mark. Dan is married to a local girl and tomorrow I'm off to meet her mum and see her village. Should get some really nice photos. So the evenings has consisted of drinking and eating with them at the local warung. I stitched up a French girls foot this morning too, and I cut myself up a bit on the rocks. Unfortunately its going to eight foot faces tomorrow so I might have a massage instead. But they have told me of a little secret spot in the east that is just like medewi but a right hand point. I might head up that way in a few days and see if I can score it.

From what I have learnt, land prices here beach front are about 4k per 100 square metres so a big plot, and then a rather nice house built would set you back 40 k. Im also considering putting a Balinese cook in my luggage for my Cornish Balinese cafe. Dans wife tells me she used to work in the warung we are always eating in, and worked 15 hours a day, with one day off a month, for a monthly salary of 28 quid. Also, if I want to move to Australia, I should consider living in Byron bay, because by the sound of it, its right up my street.